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A RECIPE FOR A WINE: “duck” tortello and wild Jerusalem artichoke roots

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The exclusive recipe of the starred Chef Davide Pezzuto of D.ONE paired with the CHIOMA DI BERENICE chardonnay San Lorenzo Vini

“The duck, or muscovy duck, is the most popular poultry animal in Abruzzo, especially in the provinces of Pescara and Chieti. It requires less attention than chickens and is more resistant and adaptable. It is used to make the sauce for dressing pasta, in particular the “sagne a pèzze”. I wanted to pay my homage to the Abruzzese duck with this tortello that uses its meat also for the filling, not only for the sauce. It is a first course but, in reality, if it weren’t for the egg pasta, it would have the full taste of a loose French jus (because I don’t add fat) with the pleasant sensation of collagen due to the polished and thickened sauce by reduction. I consider it a delicious dish in its simplicity, but which requires great attention and professionalism to achieve the “wow effect” objective given only, apparently, by three elements: the Jerusalem artichoke puree, which grows spontaneously in our countryside, the tortello, and the sauce. “

Davide Pezzuto

Ingredients for 4 people

The filling
  • 1 duck breast
  • 1 duck leg
  • 1 stick of celery
  • 1 red onion
  • 2 medium carrots
  • 80 gr of celeriac
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig of rosemary
  • 1 glass of red wine Port
  • 1 glass of duck sauce
  • Salt and pepper
Duck sauce
  • 1 diced duck carcass
  • 2 sticks of celery
  • 4 carrots
  • 2 red onions
  • ½ tablespoon of tomato paste
  • 2 glass of red wine Port
  • rosemary and bay leaf
Jerusalem artichoke puree
  • 8 pieces of Jerusalem artichoke
  • 1 liter of skimmed milk
  • 1 knob of butter
  • salt
The pasta
  • 600 grams of flour 00
  • 200 gr of semolina
  • 8 yolks
  • 2 eggs
The filling

Degrease the duck breast and leg in a pan, without adding fat. Slightly color on all sides, salt and pepper. Arrange the meat in two vacuum-packed bags without flavorings and cook the breast for 25 minutes at 62 ° and the thigh for 20 hours at 60 °, respectively.

When cooked, cool, open the bags, cut the breast into cubes, removing the skin, flesh the thigh and cut it into small pieces, discarding the skin, bone and the hardest tendon. Set aside separately. Brown the diced vegetables in the oil, add the aromas, blend with the red port, letting it evaporate completely. At this point, moderate the flame sharply and add the thigh first and, after a minute, the breast. The meat only needs to cool to allow the taste to be adjusted with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and pass the filling in a planetary mixer, adding the hot duck sauce gradually. This operation must be done quickly when hot (one minute no more), to prevent the meat from becoming too pulpy. Place the preparation in a sac-a-poche and let it rest in the fridge.

The pasta

Arrange the flours in a planetary mixer and sprinkle with the eggs just beaten at low speed. If necessary, add a little water until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Leave the dough to rest for an hour in the fridge. Roll out a thin sheet and, with the filling, form 3/4 gram tortelli.

The sauce

Toast the duck carcass in a saucepan until a nice roast color is obtained. Remove most of the resulting fat and add the vegetables, continuing to toast everything over medium heat. When the vegetables are well wilted and colored, add the herbs and deglaze with the red port. As soon as the port has evaporated, add the tomato paste, mixing continuously and making it stick to the walls and bottom of the saucepan (N.B. attacking does not mean burning, everything in this phase must be meticulously controlled). As soon as you get a nice dark color, add 3 liters of cold water and let it simmer for 2 and a half hours, skimming carefully. When cooked, pass everything through a fine chinoise, squeezing the meat well and then pass the broth with etamine or sterile gauze to remove all impurities.

Leave the broth to rest in the fridge, until the fat has set. Then, remove the fat and reduce the broth to a spoon-level consistency.

Jerusalem artichoke

Wash the Jerusalem artichoke and peel it carefully. Cut it into pieces and dip it in milk to prevent it from blackening. In a saucepan, melt the butter, lightly toss the Jerusalem artichoke into pieces and sprinkle it with the milk in which it was dipped. Bring it to cooking, remove the excess milk and blend it until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper.

Finish

Cook the tortelli in plenty of salted water and toss in a light vegetable broth, lacquering them with a little butter. Place the Jerusalem artichoke at the base of the dish, place the tortelli on top and sprinkle with two tablespoons of duck sauce.

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